The waiter lowered his voice.

We had just ordered the barbecue combo platter, and he had something to say about that.

"Look," he said, glancing over his shoulder, as though someone might be listening.

"You can order that if you like. The pulled pork is incredible, the brisket of beef really good. But after you take one bite of the ribs, you'll be sorry you didn't order just ribs. They are that good."

Fine advice, we found. The ribs ($18 for a rack) at Brundog's Zy-De-Que are that good. Frankly, they are the best we've had in a long, long time.

Meaty, juicy, tender hickory-smoked pork ribs with a chili-powder-base rub are slathered with a sauce that at first teases the taste buds with a gentle sweetness, then takes them and tosses them around with a fiery heat. Yum. Double yum.

We could live on those ribs, happily wiping our greasy hands and chins on the cloth napkins that sit on the bare wood tables.

But our jobs demand we taste a little more.

Which, truth be told, wasn't at all difficult.

That pulled pork, for instance. Ten bucks will get you a platter piled high with the shredded meat that is slowly cooked so that it takes on a luscious smokey flavor and becomes so tender it can easily be pulled apart. It's tossed with that barbecue sauce. Not enough of that sauce, however. So we asked for more and got it. With an understanding smile. The waiter knew the intoxicating magic of that sauce.

The shrimp etouffée ($16) was hot, hot, hot. OK, not that hot, but enough to set one on the prowl for some cool liquid for relief.

The half-dozen shrimp were cooked to keep their flavor, the hefty bed of rice nice and fluffy, and the roux, made with all that makes a roux rule — you know, onions, celery, a good stock — was thick and spicy and just plain good.

On a return visit, the red beans and rice ($9) seemed to call to us. The waiter cocked a brow, as though to remind us that we'll be sorry we didn't order the ribs.

We were sorry. The beans and rice dish, cut with andouille sausage, was fine but didn't dance on the tongue the way the ribs did. It's a simple dish; after the seductive complexity of the ribs smothered in sauce, however, it was a disappointment.

A choice of two side dishes comes with entrees, among them sweet baked beans, a delectable traditional cole slaw, and collard greens with hot vinegar served on the side if you want them spiced up.

A glorious finishing touch: bread pudding ($4), which practically swam in a creamy whisky sauce. It was warm, dotted with raisins, laced with cinnamon and made us very, very happy.

Brundog's is the brainstorm of Marty and Tom Brunner, who owned Capriccio, which once stood in the same spot.

Chef Tom Brunner has always had a soft spot for bold flavors and Cajun accents, even in his Italian fare.

These days, there's no couching his preferences: He's out there with his love for Naw'lins cuisine.

Especially the ribs, which are most definitely worth shouting about. We are indebted to the waiter for steering us in the most delectable direction.

● Brundog's Zy-de-que

4825 N. First Ave., 887-2333

• Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays.

• Family call: Kids will love it — all that messy food.

• Noise level: Loud. Really loud.

• Vegetarian choices: Oh, please — it's a barbecue place.

• Dress: Casual.

• Reservations: For parties of six or more.

• Price range: Dinner entrees range from $9 for the rice and beans, to $18 for the ribs.

• Online: Check out the menu at www.brundogszydeque.com/