We have a solution to the world's problems:

Put Lorraine Glicksman in charge, and have the pastry chef at Pastiche Modern Eatery serve everyone her chocolate silk pie.

Second in charge should be Pastiche's chef, Don Kishensky, and he'll make sure we all get his macaroni and cheese.

No more wars. No more frustrations. Only happy, well-fed, albeit perhaps thick-waisted people.

Yup. Sounds like a plan to us.

In the meantime, we Tucsonans are mighty lucky to be able to claim Pastiche as all ours.

The 8-year-old restaurant just seems to get better as it gets older.

Take that mac and cheese ($15.95), for instance. It comes to the table bubbly and with a golden crust on top. Big, tender macaroni noodles tossed together with smoked Gouda, white cheddar and Parmesan cheese make for a rich, creamy sauce. Adding depth: smoked bacon. Adding color: fresh spinach. Adding a hint of heat: crushed red pepper.

We are very particular about our mac and cheese. This was even better than what we make at home. Excuse us for bragging, but that's saying a lot.

If you'd rather have a less artery-clogging meal, check out the thyme sea bass ($19.95).

A chunk of the fish, tasting still-flapping fresh, was crusty on the outside and moist in. The thyme enhanced, rather than masked, the mild taste of the lean fish, and the smoky beurre blanc sauce, spiked with tomatoes and capers, was a gentle crown. Sitting next to the fish was a creamy mound of mashed root veggies, including sweet potatoes and turnips.

Pastiche even turns something as mundane as chicken into a magical dish.

The Greek chicken ($15.95) was half of a bird made moist and flavorful thanks to a marinade of lemon and olive oil and a fine rotisserie cooking.

A special on one of our visits was a gaucho steak ($19.95), which would be, if the world were fair, always on the menu.

The flavorful piece of petite tender (a less expensive but mighty tasty cut) was topped with a luscious chimichurri sauce, a delicacy made sublime with olive oil and vinegar, garlic, onions and herbs such as parsley and oregano. This is a standard sauce in Argentina; those Argentines know how to live.

The black bean salad on the side was at once tender and crunchy, thanks to nicely done beans tossed with fresh celery and onions.

But when it came to dessert, we really went over the moon.

The chocolate silk pie ($5.95), a special on one night, was hush-don't-say-a-word good. A rich, smooth chocolate mousse sat on a crunchy crust of crumbled chocolate wafers and pecans. Because pastry chef Glicksman has no qualms about excess, she then poured a chocolate cream topping over this. Oh, my.

We liked the crème brûlée ($5.95), too — velvety with a not-too-thick caramelized sugar topping — but we were plain ecstatic with the chocolate silk pie.

Service was smooth and friendly; the ambience cozy without being claustrophobic.

Pastiche has always been good, but it's on a serious upswing these days. It seems on its way to ruling the world.

Review

● Pastiche Modern Eatery 3025 N. Campbell Ave., 325-3333

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-midnight Mondays through Fridays; 4:30 p.m.-midnight Saturdays and Sundays

Wine list: Extensive, interesting and well-priced, with a good by-the-glass selection

Family call: Kids should feel comfortable here.

Noise level: Fine

Vegetarian choices: Several

Dress: Casual

Reservations: Accepted; recommended for weekends

Price range: Entrees range from $15.95 to $25.95, but most dishes are available in a smaller portion and at a smaller price.