Paper plates and plastic forks do not a bland fast-food restaurant make. It's easy to dismiss a place when the utensils are throw-aways, and the food comes quickly and without much style or fanfare. But you'd be depriving yourself if you dismiss Kababeque Indian Grill on those grounds. The first thing to recommend it: It's an offshoot of Delhi Palace, one of the better Indian restaurants in the Old Pueblo. The next: a sleek, high-style interior. Sure, the booths and chairs are mighty uncomfortable but, hey, they sure look cool. Of course, there's not much seating, so it may be a non-issue anyway. And finally: The food is up and down, but the ups are so enticing that you forgive the downs. Ordering is at the counter. The menu is small - kababs and sandwiches with innards wrapped in a thin, flat bread, which is close to a tortilla but not exactly. Kinda like pita but not exactly. And there are a couple of specials every day. Biryani was the special offered on both visits, and our only regret is that we didn't order it both times. This traditional dish was loaded with moist chunks of chicken; fragrant and nutty basmati rice; raisins and cashews; seasonings such as cumin and turmeric, cinnamon, a little fresh ginger and mint; and a few drops of yogurt to give the dish moisture. We've had it made more elaborately, and served more ceremoniously, but rarely have we had it taste so fine. The Haryali Kabab Roll ($5.49 for a double) also sent us reeling. It contained moist cubes of dark and white chicken meat marinated in herbs such as coriander, mint, chiles and a ginger and garlic paste and grilled in the imported-from-India tandoor (oven). It's rolled in the flat bread, which is warm, crisp and inviting, along with grilled onions and just-hot-enough-to-matter green chilies. Raita, a yogurt dressing cut with mint and masala (a mix of Indian spices such as cardamom and coriander), crowned the sandwich. The haryali was a meal fat with exotic seasonings, contrasting textures and well-prepared ingredients. The Lamb Kabab Roll ($5.49 for a double) however, missed winning raves because the chunks of meat were as dry as the Rillito during a long drought. The cooked-in-the-tandoor meat should be moist and tender. That's one of the benefits of tandoors. Not in this instance, however. The meat, wrapped in the flat bread, came with the yogurt topping. We helped ourselves to a lot more to add the necessary moisture. Besides that, that yogurt topping, creamy and slightly spicy, is mighty tasty. The same dryness took over the Chicken Tikka Kabab ($4.99). Chunks of crispy white meat, cooked on a skewer in the tandoor, were seasoned nicely but cooked too long. This dish is served with a side of crisp iceberg lettuce drizzled with the yogurt topping. Now, iceberg lettuce isn't your most interesting green, but we'll take any excuse to eat that dressing. Service is a non-issue here - you place your order with the cashier, they call out your number a few minutes later, and you pick up your meal. The location along East University Boulevard is ideal for people-watching. But if you're diving into the biryani, let the parade pass you by while you dine. That dish deserves all your attention.