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Every morning, someone from the kitchen staff at Zona 78 breaks up about five pounds of curds and puts them in a large stainless steel bowl, then pours in very hot or boiling water. The staffer takes two large wooden spoons and scoops and folds the curds into each other. "The more strands that can collect the water, the better," said Ramiro Scavo, the 28-year-old executive chef of Zona 78 on East River Road near North Stone Avenue.

When you bite into fresh-made mozzarella, you first notice its juicy yet firm texture. Its fresh, simple flavor beats any supermarket's mozzarella.

It's the main attraction at mozzarella bars, such as Mario Batali's Osteria Mozza in Los Angeles.

Kevin Fink, one of Zona 78's general managers, sees it as part of the larger trend of looking for organic and higher-quality products.

"I think that customer expectations are constantly growing," said Fink, 23. "I think everyone wins with that."

Zona 78 expects to more than double the amount of mozzarella it makes each week when its second, larger location opens Feb. 18 at 7301 E. Tanque Verde Road, across from Udall Park.

Combined, both places will make an estimated 250 pounds a week, up from about 100.

The restaurant also started producing its own ricotta a couple of months ago.

"It's more difficult, because we're creating it from scratch," Fink said, noting it takes about an hour to make.

The restaurant's signature organic tomato bruschetta showcases the Zona-made mozzarella with garlic bread and Willcox-grown tomatoes. Most of the house-made mozzarella is used for its pizzas. Each pie takes about four ounces.

Zona 78 also will introduce a new menu Feb. 18 that includes a couple of items, such as Rigatoni bolognese, that feature the house-made ricotta.

"We're always looking and experimenting. We're always looking for the next innovation," said Fink.

Many online sites offer recipes for making mozzarella, which takes about 30 minutes if you have the curds. When you make curds, the process can stretch into six or seven hours.

Or you can buy it at several places around Tucson (see box at right).

Zona 78 sells a pound of mozzarella for $12.99 and recommends it be used within four days. The restaurants also sells its ricotta for $9.99 a pound.

Albert Hall, chef and owner of Acacia at St. Philip's, makes about 10 pounds of mozzarella every couple of days.

"I can't find a pre-made, fresh mozzarella that tastes good," explained Hall, who makes his mozzarella from imported curds.

"It's kind of fun to make, and I love the taste of fresh mozzarella. The stuff you buy in the package is kind of spongy," Hall said. "The satiny smooth ribbons of mozzarella you make are just exquisite."

Hall also likes the "cool stuff" you can do to mozzarella, such as adding pesto or prosciutto.

"The flavor is umami, which is savory," he said. "It's really smooth; it's really sexy; it's kind of chewy but it's soft. It just fills your mouth with umami," he said.