![]() Cattle graze in a pasture along Upper Elgin Road against a backdrop of the Santa Rita Mountains on the way to Elgin. You'll find more ranch country on the drive north on Arizona 83 from Sonoita toward Tucson. You'll see oak woodlands and rolling hills along that stretch of highway. Photos by Greg Bryan / Arizona Daily Star
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Arizona Daily Star
Tucson, Arizona | Published: 12.28.2008
It can be just a little slice of heaven to have family members and friends gathered at your house in this week between Christmas and New Year's Day.
Ah, but it can turn into a slice of something other than heaven when your visitors get a little bored, a little antsy.
Here's one solution to a case of holiday-season cabin fever: Coax the gang out of the house and onto the road for a day trip.
A drive through the scenic heart of Southeastern Arizona can charm your guests and reinvigorate your own sense of the season — luring you on with richly diverse landscapes, historic sites, hidden treasures and quirky stops along the way.
At today's shrunken gas prices, such a drive can even be fairly affordable entertainment.
We've put together a suggested loop route that will take you to small towns, rolling grasslands, oak woodlands, two national conservation areas, a state historic park, a one-of-a-kind bookshop, a quaint monastery, a high-range ranch, dining stops and other attractions. Here's a glad tiding in these tough economic times: We live in a region so appealing that it draws tourists from around the nation and the world. That's good news because it means we Tucsonans can visit vacation-worthy destinations in a no-fuss day trip on less than a tank of gas.
Today — in a season when many of us are entertaining guests — we offer a suggested loop drive taking in Southeastern Arizona sites that regularly fascinate tourists from afar.
As in:
"We saw a kestrel, Gila woodpeckers and a female harrier!" enthused visitor Anne Johnson of Yuba City, Calif., during a bird-watching hike at the San Pedro Riparian National Conservation Area — one of the stops on our loop drive.
As in:
"I find these Old West artifacts fascinating — even this display of barbed wire," said Paul Barker, a native of Edinburgh, Scotland, during a visit to the Tombstone Courthouse State Historic Park. It's also on the loop.
Our general itinerary begins in Tucson, takes us southeast on Interstate 10 to a breakfast stop and a unique shop in Benson, and then continues southeast on Arizona 80 to the hamlet of St. David. There, we might buy some freshly harvested pecans and perhaps visit a peaceful monastery and its gardens.
From St. David, we travel on Arizona 80 to Tombstone, taking in some local cowboy color and visiting the town's historic courthouse before driving south to a junction with Arizona 90.
Our route then swings westward on Arizona 90 to the renowned San Pedro House bird-watching center at the San Pedro Riparian National Conservation Area. We stop in Sierra Vista for lunch and later continue north on Arizona 90 to Arizona 82. From Arizona 82, we detour south through the village of Elgin and vineyard country before arriving in Sonoita for some shopping and refreshments.
Then it's onto Arizona 83, which takes us north to a re-connection with I-10 — but only after visiting a historic ranch, part of Las Cienegas National Conservation Area.
You might want to consider short stops at all of these sites — or select a few of them for more extended tours.
Much of the pleasure of this journey, you'll find, lies in simply savoring the scenic views along the way.
Plan on driving about 200 miles or more depending on your starting point in Tucson.
See the accompanying map for some possible side-trip destinations, including Kartchner Caverns State Park south of Benson and historic, still-active Fort Huachuca near Sierra Vista.
¡Vamos!
Some travelers like to fuel up on food before starting a day trip, while others prefer to delay breakfast until they've made some mileage.
If you're in the latter category, you'll find several local and chain restaurants serving breakfast in Benson. One to consider is Reb's Cafe at 1020 W. Fourth St.
Open at 6 a.m. daily to accommodate early risers, Reb's offers a variety of full breakfasts and some specials such as eggs and toast for $2.09.
Waitress Lin Ihrke recommends the ham-and-eggs breakfast for $5.09.
"Lots of customers like the Reb's Special Omelette ($6.29)," said another employee, Terry Downey.
With your tummy full and miles to go, you might be inclined to pass up our next suggestion — a stop at a bookshop just north of Benson.
But hear us out on this. The Singing Wind Bookshop, a far country cry from Borders and Barnes & Noble, is well worth a visit if you're a lover of books.
Tucked away like a sort of literary secret in a ranch house at the end of a bumpy dirt road, the Singing Wind is known for its diverse selection of books about the Southwest.
Shop owner Winn Bundy also stocks a wide variety of other titles, stacked on floor-to-ceiling shelves.
"We get local, regional and national visitors, even though we're way out here," Bundy said. "We have a lot of customers from foreign countries, too."
To reach the shop, take Exit 304 from I-10 at Benson and drive north on Ocotillo Road about 2.5 miles to a right turnoff for Singing Wind Road. Follow the narrow dirt road about a half-mile to the bookshop on the left. Hours are from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. seven days a week.
Moments of peace and pecans in St. David
Heading southeast from Benson on Arizona 80, travelers soon reach the winsome little town of St. David.
The scenery, with groves of tall trees and cattle grazing along the road, is splendid, but don't expect to find lots of restaurants and shops in this quiet little community.
On the other hand, if you're in the market for a steer, you might stop at El Ranchito Alegre, where signs advertise "Steer for sale" and "New crop pecans."
At the south end of town, watch for a sign on the right (west) side of the road for Holy Trinity Monastery.
You needn't be a Roman Catholic to enjoy a visit to the monastery, which is open to the public at no charge.
If you stop in at the Book Store and Guest Office, guest coordinator Carol Kline will tell you of sights to see, including a 70-foot-high Celtic cross and public programs such as group retreats.
"A lot of people see that cross and stop to see what's here," Kline said.
A stroll on the grounds will take you to a tranquil meditation garden with a fish pond, a chapel with a wood-beamed ceiling, a cemetery and a bird sanctuary beside a small lake.
You might even happen upon some of the monastery's monks.
One day recently, Brother Gary Miller and a fellow monk worked with volunteers harvesting pecans in a monastery grove.
One of the volunteers, John Scott, said he travels from his home in Canada to spend several winter months in the monastery's recreational-vehicle park.
"I'm Catholic, and the spiritual life here really attracts me," Scott said as he gathered pecans shaken loose from a tree by Brother Gary. "We have prayer four times a day and Mass at noon every day. At other times we do volunteer work like this."
A court date in Tombstone
Continue southeast on Arizona 80 from St. David and you'll reach Tombstone, with its slightly surreal mix of authentic Old West history and stagy re-enactments of shootouts and other mayhem on replica Western sidewalks beside replica Western buildings.
For an informative look at Tombstone's historic side, consider a visit to Tombstone Courthouse State Historic Park. Admission is $4 for visitors 14 or older. Children 13 or younger get in free.
Built in 1882, the restored courthouse now houses artifacts from the town's mining heyday, displays with information on the area's history, and a large courtroom on the second floor.
Paul Barker, the native of Scotland who is living temporarily in Los Angeles, appeared to make a careful study of the displays on a visit with his wife, Jean, and their grandchildren, 8-year-old Domino Geddes and Jonah Geddes, 5.
"What a place to get a close look at the past!" said Jean Barker.
Other attractions in Tombstone include an underground mine tour, saloon-style restaurants and gift shops.
Birds and natural beauty along the San Pedro River
The next leg of the journey extends south of Tombstone on Arizona 80 to a junction with Arizona 90.
Driving west on Arizona 90, travelers will cross the cottonwood-lined San Pedro River just before reaching the San Pedro House on the left (south) side of the road.
A former ranch house, the San Pedro House now lies in the heart of the San Pedro Riparian National Conservation area. It serves as a visitor center for the area, which attracts many bird-watchers, hikers and others who enjoy natural settings.
The San Pedro House, which has books and gift items for sale, is a good place to get your bearings, learn about recent bird sightings and pick up a map showing hiking trails.
A mile-long hiking loop will take you through grasslands and along the wooded banks of the San Pedro River.
"There's water flowing in the river," said Anne Johnson, of California, who hiked the area with her husband, Wayne, on a bird-watching visit.
Let's do lunch in Sierra Vista
If that hunger thing is happening at about this point in the trip, a lunch stop in the town of Sierra Vista might be in order.
Drive west from the San Pedro House on Arizona 90 to reach Sierra Vista and choose from any of the many restaurants there.
One option is La Casita, a Mexican food place at 465 E. Fry Blvd. Popular menu items include the Machaca Relleno Dinner for $8 and a combination plate with a cheese enchilada, beef taco and chile relleno for $9.25.
Don't forget to glance up at the Huachuca Mountains, a comely range towering over the town.
Vintage Southern Arizona
From Sierra Vista, a drive north on Arizona 90 and then west on Arizona 82 leads to a signed turnoff for the village of Elgin. Take the left (south) turnoff, drive to Elgin, and then continue west on either of two roughly parallel routes toward Sonoita.
Along the way, you'll pass several vineyards — but don't expect to see lush acres of vines and grapes at this time of year.
Even though it's not a season for grape-growing or harvesting, the countryside is beautiful and some of the wineries are open for visitors.
A bit of shopping in Sonoita
Follow signs from the Elgin area to Arizona 83 and Sonoita.
Restaurants, rural-style convenience stores and a few shops invite a stop for a snack and a bit of browsing.
Buffalo Gals Gifts, along the road as you're coming into Sonoita from Elgin, has lots of offerings — including some fragrant ones and amusing ones.
Bar soaps, with a Buffalo Gals of Sonoita label, sell for $4.50 each.
And then there's an apron. Priced at $26, it sports an image of a horse and the words "Horse d'oeuvres."
Home on the range
One of the most scenic stretches of the loop drive is a cruise north on Arizona 83 from Sonoita to a reconnection with I-10 southeast of Tucson.
Oak woodlands decorate rolling hills along the highway, and the summits of the Santa Rita Mountains stand tall at more than 9,000 feet on the western horizon.
This is ranching country, and one place to get a glimpse into the past is at the historic Empire Ranch on a side road off Arizona 83.
Watch for a turnoff to the right (east) between mileposts 39 and 40 — and then follow an unpaved, but well-maintained, road about three miles to the ranch headquarters.
The no-longer-occupied 22-room ranch house, which dates to the 1870s, is part of Las Cienegas National Conservation Area.
The site and buildings are open to the public daily for self-guided tours free of charge.
If time permits, visitors also are free to drive some of the conservation area's back roads or hike in the area.
All that remains is to make your way back to Arizona 83, head north, and perhaps croon a chorus of "Homeward Bound."
● Contact reporter Doug Kreutz at dkreutz@azstarnet.com or at 573-4192. Breakfast and books in Benson
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