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CENTRAL IOWA — On a gray, finger-numbingly cold morning, Sen. John McCain, R-Ariz., descended the steps of the elegant Iowa State Capitol with his arm linked through those of his wife Cindy's and entered a forest of microphones, cameras and tripods.

With videographers and photographers jostling for a clear shot, McCain stands in front of his bright blue bus that boldly displays the "Straight Talk Express" logo. The bus was strategically positioned to capture the Des Moines skyline in the background as he answered a handful of questions from reporters.

This "media availability" from the Capitol steps was sandwiched between a private meeting with Republican Iowa lawmakers and a public-relations visit to Gov. Chet Culver.

Thus began a two-day road trip Thursday through Iowa for a series of what McCain's crew calls "town hall meetings," which are more accurately described as question-and-answer forums.

As a presidential candidate in 2000, our state's four-term senator developed a reputation as being open, independent and chatty with the national media and was anointed a "maverick." Asked about the status of his maverick reputation, McCain said, "I'm still the same candidate I was."

McCain's trip to Iowa, a state he said he skipped in the 2000 campaign for lack of funds, came as he slipped in the polls below former New York Mayor Rudy Giuliani, and his luster was tarnished by his adamant support for adding troops to the war in Iraq. The bus tour gives McCain national media exposure and gives hand-shaking, inquisitive Iowans a chance to meet Candidate McCain and check out his "common sense conservatism."

"It's important to show strength in this early stage," said Charles Larson Sr. before McCain's appearance.

Larson is a retired U.S. attorney for the Northern District of Iowa working with his son's firm handling some of McCain's public relations in Iowa. Larson said his state has a knowledgeable, literate population and the nature of Iowa's caucuses, which are about 10 months away, encourages people to talk directly to candidates.

No one becomes president without a good showing in Iowa, Larson said. The Iowan inquisitiveness emerges at Thursday's lunchtime town hall in Ames. Nibbling bowls of chili and crackers, the Republican, McCain-friendly crowd of about 350 was stuffed into a Quality Inn meeting room.

"We exploded," said Nola Hirdman, from Story City who was wearing a Western-style hat she called her Sun City hat. Hirdman, who shuffled people and chairs to accommodate the packed house, said she voted for McCain when she was an educator in the Dysart Unified School District in Surprise-El Mirage, Ariz.

After opening remarks, the Ames audience, mostly wearing blue McCain stickers, lobbed McCain a couple of questions before getting tough on his views on ethanol and immigration.

Always respectful, the Ames audience frequently applauded McCain, especially when he mentioned his desire for a tighter belt for the federal budget, his service record and made comments such as "I know the face of war. I know the face of evil."

Usually beginning his responses, "My friends," McCain was quick to acknowledge that he did not know the answer to a question and followed with a comment on something with which he was comfortable.

For example, when asked about the possibility of Iran beginning to price oil based on the euro rather than the U.S. dollar, McCain said he hadn't heard about the currency switch, but the United States has bigger issues with Iran than currency. He went on to discuss nuclear weapons capabilities and shipping people and deadly equipment to support the insurgency in Iraq.

The crowd laughed at his self-effacing, self-deprecating humor. McCain told the group that Barry Goldwater, Mo Udall, Bruce Babbitt and he ran for president; Arizona mothers can't — yet — tell their children it's possible to grow up to be president.

McCain's ride is a comfy tour bus, with a kitchenette, leather chairs and couches for staff and media, two booths, several flat screen TVs, plus Hostess Donuts and individual-size bags of chips. After Ames was a brief stop in Iowa Falls at the Coffee Attic for more hand shaking and chatting about ethanol, cropland values. And, of course, a cup of coffee.

On the road to Mason City, McCain sat in a booth at the back of the bus. Surrounded by print, television and Internet journalists, he held court, casually answering questions. His cell phone ring interrupted the conversation.

"Lindsey!" McCain said. Sen. Lindsey Graham, R-S.C., called to update his friend that Republicans prevailed and the Democratic legislation requiring a troop withdrawal from Iraq had failed.

Earlier in the day, McCain considered leaving Iowa to fly back to the Senate for the vote on Iraq legislation. He changed his mind — perhaps after he counted votes. As he got the score of who voted which way from Graham, it was clear McCain's vote wasn't necessary — the measure was several votes short of what it required to pass.

Minnesota Gov. Tim Pawlenty rode the bus Thursday and introduced McCain in Ames and at the late afternoon session at the Elks Lodge in Mason City. Pawlenty, who said he fully supports and has endorsed McCain, is a popular name on the list of potential Republican vice presidential candidates. No ticket announcements, though. Pawlenty said Thursday that he was "committed to be governor of Minnesota" and that the Iowa bus tour was a personal opportunity for him to catch up with McCain.

In Pawlenty's opening remarks to a jampacked group at the Elks had plenty of praise. He said McCain had "heartland values" and that McCain was a man of great vision, courage and patriotism and one of the nation's strongest leaders. Pawlenty's description made McCain sound like he'd be a pretty good boss.

During his opening remarks and in responses to questions, McCain frequently referred to Ronald Reagan, the icon of the Republican Party. When McCain returned from Vietnam, he said Reagan was the inspirational governor of California for whom McCain became a foot soldier.

With the Straight Talk Express traveling the roads of Iowa and McCain speaking to hundreds of potential voters, McCain said campaigning was invigorating — it kept him on his toes. He'll have plenty of opportunity to be on those toes. Nola Hirdman, who had lived in Arizona, said she expected the McCains to visit Iowa "a bunch" more times before the caucus and election.

McCain is fond of saying "the best days are ahead of us" — and many of those days will be on the bus and visiting with Iowans.

What McCain told Iowans

Iraq: "Can we succeed? I believe we can." The Arizona senator said that if the United States withdraws he could guarantee chaos, genocide and the need to return. "If we lose this conflict and leave they (terrorists) will follow us home. … To set a date for withdrawal is to set a date for defeat."

Immigration: It's a national security issue, and it is a federal responsibility. McCain supports a comprehensive approach that includes a temporary worker program that requires a tamper-proof, biometric visa. He does not support amnesty — he doesn't want to reward illegal behavior. However, he realizes deporting 12 million people here is impossible. Therefore, he wants a rather complex mechanism that would send home some illegal immigrants who have been in the nation for a short time and would fine others and send them to the back of the citizenship line.

Politics: In discussing his desire to cross party lines to work out solutions, he said "Presidents and political parties don't lose wars; nations lose wars."

Spending: Expressing his frustration over the pork-barrel ways of Congress, McCain said Republicans went to Washington in 1994 intent to change government; unfortunately, government changed the Republicans.

Mexico: He has great hope for President Felipe Calderón, and cited the extradition of drug lords to the United States. However, McCain said he feared the corruption in Mexico might be so deep that Calderón cannot be fully effective.

Marriage rights for gays: He supports the unique status and sanctity of marriage. However, he said as a federalist that he believes marriage is a state responsibility and therefore does not support a Constitutional amendment banning marriage rights for gays.

Draft: He agreed that the military is over-extended; however, reinstating the draft is not the answer. McCain said that the all-volunteer armed forces are professional and well trained.

Global warming: "Climate change is real." McCain said that it could be addressed in a way that is profitable and viable. He supports reducing greenhouse gases by using ethanol and nuclear energy; however, he does not support a subsidy for ethanol.

Guantanamo Bay: McCain said he would close the detention camp a Guantanamo Bay, move the detainees to Fort Leavenworth and proceed immediately with trials.

Torture: McCain, who survived torture at the hands of his Vietnamese captors, said: "We're a better nation than that." He also said the personnel doing the torturing suffer because they can't divorce themselves from that reality of what they did to others.

What Iowans said about McCain

● Nola Hirdman of Story City said as a prisoner of war who was so maltreated, McCain had so much time to think about God and country that he had to have good ideas.

● Martha Clifford of Ames said McCain is "what I'm looking for to lead us back to being proud to be Americans. I love his patriotism."

● "He comes across as honest, a straight-talker," said Julia Anderson of Hubbard after she asked McCain staff members about working for the campaign.

● Charles Larson Sr. and Minnesota Gov. Tim Pawlenty said they like McCain's national security and military background.