Finally, Ted Allen is willing to discuss his toaster splurge.

"OK, I feel a little silly about this," says Allen, who offers food and wine advice on Bravo's reality drama "Queer Eye for the Straight Guy."

"I have a ridiculously expensive toaster. One of those Dualits."

Using a gift certificate, Allen bought the British-made toaster, which can cost up to $300. The styling of the Dualit is so sleek it has become the centerpiece of his New York kitchen, Allen said in a recent telephone interview to promote his first cookbook, "The Food You Want to Eat: 100 Smart, Simple Recipes" (Clarkson Potter, $27.50).

With the fading of low-carb dieting last year, toast is becoming "in" again. Ironically, 2005 was the 100th anniversary of the electric toaster. Now millions of toast lovers who have been lurking in the shadows fearing ridicule can feel in vogue again — as long as they choose to lightly caramelize (a scientific process known as the Maillard reaction) the surface of whole-grain breads.

Toasters took off in 1933 with the invention of sliced bread. Today nearly every home in America owns a toaster, which on average is in use about 35 hours every year.

The accompanying recipe riffs on toast are from Allen's cookbook.