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Double chocolate cream pie from Abygail's Fine Bakery and Café, $25. It has two layers of chocolate - light and dark - topped with whipped cream.
Ron Medvescek / Arizona Daily Star
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Health Care CATALINA POINTE ARTHRITIS MEDICAL BILLING COORDINATOR General Big State Sell construction tools and supplies nation wide. Dental Dr. John Carson, DDS, PC Dental Asst/Treatment Coordinator Trades/Construction arizona portland cement maintenance electrician Restaurants and Clubs Zinburger All Positions Sales and Marketing Xentel Business & Residential Callers FoodCream pies for the holidays You can transform pastry cream or pudding into a half-dozen flavorful varieties, or - if you prefer - you can rely on local bakeries for your tasteful treats
SPECIAL TO THE ARIZONA DAILY STAR
Tucson, Arizona | Published: 11.16.2005
A heavenly cream pie can be literally worth its weight in gold. Ask Seattle restaurateur Tom Douglas, who has built a food empire on top of a really good one.
When Douglas and his wife, Jackie Cross, opened the Dahlia Lounge in 1989, his old-fashioned Triple Coconut Cream Pie anchored the dessert menu. Today, four top-rated restaurants, a bakery, an award-winning cookbook, a line of kitchen products and a catering business later, the pie is still a hit.
"It's still our best seller 16 years into it, 75 pies a day," Douglas said via e-mail from Seattle.
Autumn and the holiday season in general call out for pies - pumpkin, apple, pecan and all the rest.
Rich with cream, luscious with pudding, sometimes packed full of fruit, cream pies deserve their place at the holiday table, too.
But because pies made with real cream are expensive and highly perishable, chances are you will need to special-order them or make them yourself.
We've snagged the recipe for Douglas' famous pie, as well as instructions for transforming a simple pastry cream or pudding into a half-dozen flavors of cream pie, from the classic banana to a rich chocolate.
Cream pies are flexible that way. Soon you will find yourself experimenting with different fruits and flavorings to make your own culinary star attraction.
Consider Almond Joy pie - that's an almond-coconut cream pie made at the Bread & Butter Café, 4231 E. 22nd St. Or how about a Mississippi Mud Pie from Abygail's Fine Bakery and Café, in St. Philip's Plaza, 4380 N. Campbell Ave.? That's a chocolate cream pie laden with crushed Oreo cookies and pieces of chocolate-covered toffee, then topped with chocolate whipped cream.
"I'll make about any kind of pie," said Suzie Ruhl Olasin, owner/chef at the 9-month-old Abygail's. "If you have a recipe and I don't, I'll make it from yours."
Olasin also built her eatery on pies, although fruit pies are her biggest draw. A lifelong home baker, she began baking pies to sell as a distraction from serious illness. After seven years of selling at local farmers markets, Olasin and daughter-operator Jamie Marie Solomon opened Abygail's last winter.
Her cream pies ($18 to $25) must be ordered a day in advance, although she hopes to build enough business to start offering them in the bakery case sometime this winter.
The cream pie deliciously combines three elements that are in themselves simple, but together make something really wonderful.
The pie crust
You can have your choice of doughs. Olasin and Douglas both use a butter crust à la French pastry making, instead of the shortening or lard crust more common in American cookery. Their coconut pies also have coconut in the pastry itself.
But the wildly popular diner-style pies at the Bread & Butter feature a classic shortening crust. Café owner Mike Rohwer won't give out the recipe. But he does say the secret ingredients that make it really flaky are vinegar and ice water.
Add 1 teaspoon of white or cider vinegar per 1 1/2 cups of flour. Reduce other liquid in pie crust recipe accordingly.
For any of these cream pies, you will bake an empty pie shell, although you can also use a graham cracker crust. The main challenge is to keep a pastry crust from shrinking or collapsing.
To prevent shrinkage, be sure to give the dough ample time to chill and relax in the refrigerator or freezer, both after mixing the dough and after you form it into a pie shell. To avoid collapse, prick the raw shell all over with a fork, then weight the interior of the shell with something while it bakes - either the classic foil topped with dried beans or pastry weights, or another, equal-size pie pan, buttered on the bottom. Remove for the last few minutes of cooking, so bottom of crust will lightly brown.
The pudding
The base of your filling can be either a classic French pastry cream, which is thickened with flour, or an all-American cornstarch-thickened pudding. Douglas and Olasin use flour; Rohwer uses cornstarch. If you want to get really fancy, use a favorite mousse recipe, whether chocolate or lemon or some other flavor.
The amount of filling you use is flexible - chances are you will have some left over if you use the accompanying pastry cream recipe. You can always chill the dessert until set, then add more pudding on top. Or spoon leftover filling into individual serving dishes, chill, and you have pudding to offer those who might otherwise sneak into the finished pie.
The whipped cream
The topping is the chief reason bakery cream pies using real cream can be hard to come by. Real whipped cream is highly perishable, and it soon begins to weep liquid onto the filling. And health inspectors tend to frown on milk and egg products sitting in bakery cases for more than a day.
Rohwer gets around the problem by using a nondairy product that whips into a creamlike topping.
You can also: Use powdered sugar to sweeten the cream (the cornstarch in the powdered sugar helps stabilize it), or a little cream of tartar, like Olasin does. You can ask the bakery to give you the whipped cream for a custom-made pie separately, to add just before serving (discard the liquid that accumulates in the cream container). Similarly, you can wait until the last minute to top your own creation with its mound of rich cream. Keep already-whipped cream well-chilled and, if possible, set in a sieve over a bowl to catch the drips while it waits.
Don't like whipped cream? Any of these pies can be served plain, or with cream on the side. Or you can spread a simple meringue on top of a chilled pudding pie and brown it quickly in a hot oven.
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