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Crisp 'n' chewy Arizona Daily Star
Tucson, Arizona | Published: 05.30.2007
Thin is in.
When it comes to pizza, anyway. Not that thick, bready crust has ever really gone out of style, but thin-crust pie is definitely catching on.
You'll find the delectable dish all over town — in Italian eateries such as Piazza Gavi and Di Luca Fine Italian Foods and the upscale North, to name a few. Just look at the explosion of Sauce: The casual restaurant featuring brick-oven-fired, gourmet-topped pizzas has grown to three Tucson locations since the first one opened in 2003.
The year-old Vero Amore, 3305 N. Swan Road, centered its menu on wood-fired pizzas.
So, just what is it about the crisp yet chewy creations?
Joshua Mussman, who owns Vero Amore with his brother Aric, chalks up the popularity to the pie's lightness.
"After you eat one of mine, you're not bloated, full," says Mussman, who's mulling over Vero Amore locations outside of Tucson.
Christopher Cristiano — vice president and corporate chef of Fox Restaurant Concepts, which owns North and Sauce — agrees.
"I think one of the reasons why thin-crust pizzas are so popular is it's kind of feeding everyone's guilty pleasure," says Cristiano, a fan of thick and thin crusts. "At Sauce, you can go and get a whole pizza and it still doesn't equal two slices of a Pizza Hut-type thick-crust pizza as far as calories, carbs, sugar, things of that nature."
It's trendy now, but the reason behind thin crust's popularity is timeless. Balance is the key, Joshua Mussman says.
"You taste the sauce, you taste the cheese — you don't just taste bread," he explains.
And with that, he rolled up the sleeves on his chef's coat and showed us how to make the perfect, ethereal pizza with a light crust that's both chewy yet crisp with a subtly salty bite and the occasional rustic burnt spot on the bottom.
Cookbook author Jody Adams on making pizza crust:
"You can make good pizza dough in a few hours. Great dough, one whose crust will make people sit up and wonder if they've been eating cardboard all their lives, requires a little extra time, but almost no extra effort. A memorable pizza crust will almost always have been made from dough that has had the benefit of an extended second rising, usually stretched out over 6 to 8 hours. The extended second rising allows the gluten fibers greater time to develop, resulting in a chewier crust. It also eliminates the raw quality that can sometimes flavor crust made from 'quick' doughs.
"The crust tastes mature, like a well-made bread, good enough to stand on its own, instead of serving just as a vehicle for the topping. I always let my dough rise slowly the second time. The minor inconvenience of planning ahead is more than offset by the superior flavor of the finished pizza crust. If I'm going to make pizza on Saturday, I prepare the dough on Friday night and let it rise once at room temperature. Then I punch the dough down and throw it into the refrigerator. By chilling the dough, I slow the second rising way down, so it takes place over the next 6 to 8 hours.
"On Saturday morning, the dough is ready. I leave the dough in the refrigerator if I'm going to use it that night. Otherwise I wrap it tightly in several layers of plastic wrap and freeze it. Frozen pizza dough lasts for a month.
"Most pizza dough recipes are conspicuously vague when it comes to the number and size of the pizzas that the dough will make. I make thin-crust pizzas, meaning the dough is about 3/16-inch thick. You don't have to worry about measuring this. If you roll a pound of pizza dough into two 12-inch pizzas, the dough will be the right thickness. You can actually roll the dough out into 2 16-inch pizzas, in which the crust will be even thinner, an effect that works particularly well when you're topping the dough with only a few ingredients, with items that you don't want to cook too long, or when you're using pizza dough for homemade crackers."
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