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Nothing stirs the blood quite as much as the awesome primordial power of a volcano. This is particularly true on the island of Sicily, home of Etna, Europe's largest live volcano and one of the most active in the world. At nearly 11,000 feet, it literally towers above the Ionian coastline, its smoking peak a heart-stirring (and sometimes heart-stopping!) sight.

Since 1987 the volcano and its slopes have been part of a national park, the Parco dell'Etna, a territory that encompasses a fascinatingly varied landscape from the severe, almost surreal summit, with its breathtaking panoramas, to deserts of lava and alpine forests.

The ancient Greeks were convinced that Etna was the home of the Titans, while Aeschylus saw it as the column that held up the sky. Adventurers, scholars and tourists have flocked to see its pyrotechnic displays since the 15th century.

The latest eruption occurred in 2003, when a series of massive explosions released rivers of molten rock down its southern side, sweeping away a huge swath of ancient pine forest and spewing hot ash 2,300 feet into the sky. It was a salutary reminder that Etna is a "live" volcano, and for two years the authorities struggled to restore the tourist infrastructure.

These days you can once again ascend its heady heights by taking the daily bus from Catania to the Rifugio Sapienza (6,300 feet). There you climb aboard the Funivia dell'Etna cable car, which whisks you through the clouds to 8,200 feet. From there you can either make the long trek (about four hours round-trip) up the winding track to the Bocca Nuova (9,700 feet) or hop on one of the Mercedes Benz trucks.

On a clear day, the landscape of the crater is simply stunning. The perfect black cone of the Cratere Sud-Est, dusted with a fine white coating of magnesium, is framed against a perfect blue sky.

The guided tour, should you join it, takes you on a 45-minute walk around the Bocca Nuova (New Crater), formed in the 2003 eruptions. Along its rim the ground is still warm underfoot, the magma in its crater simmering at 750 degrees. On the eastern edge, the Valle del Bove falls away in a precipitous 3,280-foot drop, smoke billowing up from its depths and enveloping you on the ridge above.

Undoubtedly Etna hogs the limelight, but Sicily and its necklace of islands are a veritable volcanic playground. Just off the northeast coast you'll find the arc of the seven Aeolian Islands, all part of a huge 9,850-foot-high volcanic ridge.

Of these. the most captivating is Stromboli, with its permanently active cone, which constantly launches showers of incandescent lava into the air. Take a trek with Magmatrek to get a closer look at the fabulous Sciara del Fuoco (River of Fire) and the explosions at the crater.

These usually occur every 20 minutes or so and are preceded by a loud belly roar as gases force the magma into the air. It's incredibly exciting.

Getting there and around: European budget airlines including Ryanair and Air Berlin fly directly to Catania and Palermo. Flights from the United States usually involve a change in either Milan or Rome. Ustica Lines is the main hydrofoil operator for the Aeolian Islands.

Where to stay: In Catania, the classic Agora Hostel (www.agorahostel.com; dorm beds $25, doubles $65) is a cheap and cheerful base for would-be Etna climbers, while on Stromboli, La Locanda del Barbablu (www.barbablu.it; doubles $140-215; open April-October) offers romantic Old World charm.

Travels with Lonely Planet